Thursday 22 March 2012

Surat_ in all its glory!

The wait has been very long this time, almost two years! Our train enters the surat station at 15 minutes past midnight on 8th of march. We hire an auto rickshaw and start towards my husband's ancestral home in Bilal gali. As the rickshaw enters the area of Jhapa Bazaar, familiar sights, sounds and odours greet us! Even at this unearthly hour, this particular area in Surat is wide awake. The vendors selling heavenly smelling food, the areas around Jamea and Qasr mubarak illuminated with series of lights, and talabats roaming around in streets. Oh, its all so familiar! Been there , done that! "Oh, how much I have missed you! What took it so long this time?" My heart silently complains to Surat. "Welcome home! Don't worry, I will more than make up for the lost time", it whispers back.

Surat has always been very close to my heart with hundreds of pleasant memories of my Jamea days associated with it. This year when 101st Milad Mubarak of Aqa Moula (tus) was declared in Surat, my heart jumped with joy(and so did I!) :) I was going to Surat after two long years!

Stepping in Surat is like stepping back in time. It is a wonderful blend of old heritage and new amenities.Though old,dilapidated buildings are getting replaced by trendy new ones, but the essence of old Surat remains the same. It is a place like none other! Its an honour to walk in the streets that have been walked on by many Duat Kiram(ra) . To touch one's forehead to the threshold of Devri Mubarak. To pray in the majestic Masjid e Moazzam. To perform ziarat of seven Duat resting in those pristine Qubbas. And to feel the aura surrounding Al Jamea Tus Saifiyah!

This year the celebrations are double and the happiness twice as much! That of 101st Milad and of wedding in Qasre aali! Surat has been decorated like a bride. It looks bright, beautiful and inviting. The joy is palpable. The air is charged with excitement, joy and festivities. What a time to be alive!

On 16th of Rabi ul Akhar, the red cloth_mandvo_ symbolizing the beginning of marriage celebrations, was tied infront of Qasr Mubarak. Aqa Moula (tus) himself graced the occasion with his esteemed presence. The place was resonant with cries of 'Mubarak Moula'!


Every night after maghrib Moula would perform ziarat. Due to newly constructed bridge and glass elevator, it is possible to do deedar even from the end of Bilal Gali. The sight of his noorani face in the illuminated glass lift made the hearts leap with joy and love! And tears of gratitude automatically rolled down.

On 18th of Rabi ul akhar , mumineen across the world witnessed the grand procession of Milad Mubarak.
It was a treat to watch this procession, and a treat to watch and hear the band of Jamea playing different tunes, especially the tune of 'nahno ban ul jamea'. And after the procession was over, the traditional yemeni steps were performed in the street of devri, and it went on for almost an hour. The chants of 'marhaba ya noora aini' could be heard everywhere.

On the eve of Milad Mubarak, there was 'wadhawani majlis' exclusively for ladies. The decoration around Moula's bethk was in the shape of a beautiful purple khaima (tent). It is an occasion that I always look forward to with much anticipation and enthusiasm. To gaze at the dazzling stars of the royal family shining brightly in beautiful elegant clothes and ethnic jewellery! To observe them performing the 'wadhawani' rituals. The protocol they follow and the easy grace and charm with which they carry themselves! No words can do justice to the beauty of this captivating event.

The morning of 20th Rabi ul Akhar dawned with euphoria in every mumin's heart. What luck to be able to gaze at the sun and the moon on one platform! The moon sitting at sun's feet, taking light from it. May the glory and radiance of these celestial bodies continue to guide the generations and generations to come.

On 21st of rabi ul Akhar, the magnificent wedding procession was held. The young bridegrooms of the royal family adorned with flowers,  rode elegantly on horses. The young bhaisahebs (boys), dressed up in golden dresses and turbans sat royally on horses. And the pretty little bensahebas (girls), resembling fairies, were seated in beautifully decorated camel carts. Everything was so mesmerising. Now this is what we call a 'fairy tale wedding'! The ultimate royals!

I was in Surat for six days and I thoroughly enjoyed myself each second. Drenched myself in the barakaat being showered endlessly. It was like a dream come true. And along with that, I enjoyed all that Surat has to offer. Relished the famous Falooda of Taj. Savoured the mouth watering tikkas of 'chote mian' and egg sandwiches of 'ghulam nabi' . And enjoyed the paan of 'saleem'. Surat is the only place where you would find people from every walk of life eating at all the famous roadside stalls and joints without any inhibitions. So don't be surprised if while eating your 'chatpati' you realize that some well known figure of community is standing next to you. :)

I am back to my home in Rajasthan, but am missing Surat each second. The decorated streets of surat flash upon my inward eye. 'Music when soft voices die, vibrates in the memory'. From the folds of my memory I hear the echo of this tune:
                                     Ek so ekwi Milad ki ye baha
                                     Ho mubarak, mubarak , mubarak shaha......



4 comments:

  1. Tasneem what a mesmerizing painting of Surat you have rendered in this blog post; i can picture it all. Mubarak on attending this historic occasion and thanks a million times for remembering me there.
    I cherished every word of this post. It was Picture Perfect.
    Maryam

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Maryam, that's very generous of you. Alhamdolillh we have been very lucky this year, during taherabad sfar and then surat.
      Thanks for visiting, always look forward to your feedback.

      Delete
  2. U brought us back to those majestic moments and infact truly mesmorised us by ure words ! Keep up the writing- u just keep getting better and even more better !

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